AB Tank Setup

The latest addition to my workbench setup has been this tank for my airbrush. Having a tank for your airbrush offers a couple advantages. First, you get a steady supply of pressure while airbrushing. Before, I would tend to get a strong blast when I first pressed the button on the airbrush which would then fade to lower pressure. The second advantage, if you have a compressor with automatic shutoff is that your compressor will run for about 5 minutes to fill the tank, and then stop, and only run for a minute or two every so often to refill the tank as pressure drops. This makes it quieter and extends the life of your compressor.

I got the tank itself from Harbor Freight Tools for $40. The first thing you have to do to hook it up to your airbrush and compressor is to splice into the hose that comes attached to it.

The picture above shows the hose that comes out of the tank. I cut it and put one of these 1/4 Inch Male Hose Ends in it, with a hose clamp to keep it airtight. To that I added a Quick Disconnect and attached it to a 10 foot hose I got at Harbor Freight.

Next, comes the more complicated part. To make things easier, I labeled this picture:

A. is the water trap that comes with and is connected to the compressor.
B. is the bracket that holds it, I unscrewed it and zip-tied it to the leg of my workbench table.
C. is a couple of manifolds (or TEEs) from Coast Airbrush
D. is an air pressure regulator. This is much better than the one that is integrated into the compressors water trap since it doesn’t vent excess air and saves both wear and tear and excess noise.
E. is simply a plug. The second manifold it screws into isn’t necessary, but I put it there in case I want to hook up a second airbrush. To hook up another airbrush I would remove the plug and put the second hose there.
F. is the hose that runs to my airbrush.
G. is the other end of the 10-foot hose that runs to the tank, also equipped with a quick disconnect.

Make sure that you use teflon tape in all of your connections, or your setup will leak like a sieve.

There you go. The whole project cost about $100, but $20 of that was the regulator, which I should have already had.

  1. September 14th, 2012 at 17:57 | #1

    Didn’t you need a ball check valve in there from the compressor to the tank in order to prevent leakage/backflow?

  2. September 14th, 2012 at 17:58 | #2

    BTW, Can you get back to my by email? remove the spam: lousmailSPAM@hotmail.com

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